Snapped Cymbal Repair

Well its not the most complicated repair in the Guitarherorepair arsenal but there is not much about it on the web so I thought we would go through it (oh yes and it happened to me, on my kit yesterday!)


While drumming like a hairy neanderthal you manage to hit the cymbal so hard it physically breaks the plastic holding it together.


The fix here is superglue nice and simple, when joining hard plastics superglue joins pretty much as hard as the original bond, it is cheap, fast and simple (unless you end up gluing your fingers together!)

What you will need to do is:

  • Take the cymbal off
  • unscrew the back cover ( so it looks like the one in the picture above)
  • remove the rubber covering ( it is only held in place by a couple of spots of glue)
  • examine the extend of the crack so you know where to apply the glue
  • TOP TIP - breath heavily on the area to be glued just before you glue - superglue reacts with moisture in the air to make it harden so this just helps the process
  • hold it in position for a minute or two
  • reassemble and play

There are also some things you can do to prevent this problem happening

  • don't hit it too hard (duh!)
  • swap your cymbals around occasionally so one is not taking more abuse than the other
  • reinforce the area with strong glue before this happens (do not get any glue near the sensor, this will affect the sensitivity of the pads)


13 Comments on "Snapped Cymbal Repair"

  1. michelle on Fri, 8th May 2009 2:17 pm 

    one of my son’s friends twisted the yellow cymbal and broke the wire, is it easy to repair?

  2. Steve on Fri, 8th May 2009 7:23 pm 

    Hi Michelle,

    Yes that is an easy repair. All you will need to do is solder a new 3.5mm headphone plug onto the end of the cymbal wire so you can plug it back in. Exactly how you do it will depend on where the wire has snapped, but even if you need to add a bit more wire it is only a case of a couple of easy solder joints.

    Good luck – tell us how you get on!

  3. Graham Clifton on Fri, 22nd May 2009 6:43 am 

    Hi, I have recently knackered my cymbal, it no longer responds to hits! My brother took it apart and discovered that one of the pins on the socket had snapped and he “repaired it” I may have damaged the piezo sensor in the process though… Do you know what size I need and what frequency range it has to respond to? the connector should be a simple enough fix, If i cant find one with the same leg arrangement, ill make do with a different socket and make a custom board up… Im not paying £20 + postage for a new cymbal because of a faulty socket!

  4. Steve on Mon, 25th May 2009 4:54 pm 

    Yes if you are able to sort out the connectors then we sell the piezo sensors here

  5. tekNique on Wed, 8th Jul 2009 2:54 am 

    I bought a real set of E drums, Ashton edk530 mesh heads $700AU. I never have drums problems anymore and I can use this kit for GH5. Id recomend to any serious GH expert drums players to get a real E kit.

  6. Steve on Wed, 8th Jul 2009 11:25 am 

    Well tekNique if you have the cash to splash that seems to be the way forward! I have never played a set of E drums but I would hope for $700 you are getting amazing gameplay out of them!

    Thanks for leaving a message!

  7. Hans on Sat, 25th Jul 2009 2:22 am 

    One of my cymbal’s has developed a minor crack. The crack starts from the bottom of the cymbal, to about under the microchip. Since it hasn’t really snapped, I’m not exactly sure how to fix it with a glue gun.

    I first noticed the crack when my cymbal started registering double hits when I hit it once–I think the crack is causing that, anyway.

  8. Steve on Sat, 25th Jul 2009 5:52 pm 

    Hi Hans

    If it is not yet a proper crack in the cymbal then I would suggest using the glue to cover the crack and try to reinforce it before the crack starts to spread. Superglue works well on the hard plastic

  9. Hugh on Sat, 1st Aug 2009 7:25 am 

    I have a problem with my yellow cymbal.
    It started only registering hits intermittently a few weeks ago.
    I did a few fault finding things to try and narrow down the area that the problem is in.
    Firstly I tried hitting the cymbal in different spots and with different degrees of strength.
    This sort of narrowed it down to the central area.
    Next I unplugged and pulled the yellow cymbal off, checked the wire, unscrewed the yellow cymbal and checked for any obvious faults on the PCB.
    I then swapped the orange and yellow cymbals over.
    The problem was still with the yellow cymbal.
    I think the 3.5mm socket PCB has come loose somehow.
    Any ideas and or solutions?

  10. Steve on Tue, 4th Aug 2009 11:58 am 

    Hi Hugh

    Well thats some good fault finding you have been through there! It is quite common for the 3.5mm socket on the pcb to become loose and loose its connection (often it is fine while the cymbal wire is in one position but it the cymbal wire moves a little bit it looses the connection) This is caused either by the vibration of enthusiastic drummers or by having moveed the cymbals while the wires are still connected. You can resolder the 3.5mm socket back onto the PCB if you believe this to be the case but it will not take much heat before the solder points on the board come away so only use a very low powered soldering iron (15W) and be quick about it!

    Another thing you can do is to put a new 3.5 mm socket on the other side of the PCB (you can see they use the same PCB for left and right side cymbal) but this often involves drilling holes in the other side to put the solder pins through the board and then you will need to scratch the coating off the PCB around the holes you drill to reveal the copper surface under the green coating which you need to solder onto. This is a difficult job involving a tiny drill bit and some very delicate scratching (DJ Hero pun anyone?) but can be done. Otherwise you could look at hardwiring the cymbal by soldering the cable directly onto the sensor wires but this is even more difficult and you will not be able to take the cymabl off to move the drum kit anywhere.

    Hope this helps – tell us how you get on

  11. Hugh on Wed, 5th Aug 2009 12:29 pm 

    Hi Steve,

    Thanks for answering my question.
    i think it was definitely caused by some ‘enthusiastic’ drumming.
    it looks like i’m going to have to get my hands on a soldering iron and kit.
    i think i’ll try re-soldering the socket onto its current position, it sounds like its the least fiddly.
    if that doesnt work, i’ll attempt to drill some pads for the socket on the other side and scratch tracks out, but i hope it wont get to that!
    thanks again steve

  12. Sergio on Sat, 29th Aug 2009 6:18 pm 

    Hi Steve,

    first of all congratulations, this website is great!

    I have the same problem as Hugh. I am sure it is the 3.5 mm socket that is loose.

    I already tried to put some rubber beneath the socket so that it would be pushed against the PCB and won’t be loose anymore but that just made things worst and when I tested it, the cymbal had no response.

    After removing the rubber, the cymbal was again responding intermittently depending on the wire position.

    I want to try the resolder solution but I am afraid I will just ruin the cymbal for good… Are there any videos showing how to resolder the socket?

    Thanks for the help!

  13. Steve on Sun, 30th Aug 2009 10:24 am 

    Hi Sergio

    Resoldering the 3.5mm socket onto the pcb is very difficult, the solder points are tiny and dont take much heat to actually take the solder tabs off the pcb, you can try getting a new 3.5mm socket (mono) and soldering it to the other side of the pcb, the points are there but you may need a tiny drill bit to create the holes for the solder pins to go through as they are only drilled on one side. This is also pretty tricky but the best option from where you are right now. The only other option is a new cymbal which we do have in the parts store if you want to give that a try

    Thanks for the nice comments about the site

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